BIRD WATCHING IN MOROCCO

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Merdja Zerga

 Click here to see printable map.                         Pictures from Merdja Zerga

Attraction Merdja Zerga means "Blue Lagoon". It is a large coastal lagoon which in winter is thronged with thousands of wildfowl, waders and flaminco's. A major attraction of Lake Zerga is the presence of the rare African Marsh Owl. In winter season expect to see around 1000 greater Flamingo, 30 000 Ducks, 40 000 coots and 50 000 waders (don't forget to count them).

 
Getting There The Lake is situated near the coastal town of Moullay Bousselham. From Larache, follow signs off the main road into Arbaoua village. Then turn left at the first obvious junction. From the South, drive into Kenitra, then follow signs for Tanger.

 
Strategy The lake is at walking distance (750 m) from the small fishing town of Moullay Bousselham.
In the town itself you can find a few restaurants along the shore site. Go for the seafood it is
exellent. If you are planning on spending several days here, which is definitely a good idea, you have two possibilities for accomodation: the campside or hotel accomodation. The camp side is the best place in Africa to spot African Marsh Owl. During the day, the birds rest in the trees at the SE site of the campsite. About 10-20 miniutes after sunset, the Owls take off and fly east. We saw 23 owls in 2000. You might be tempted to pitch your tent here, like we did, but don't bother. You can easely find a room in town, walk down along the east side of the campside, sit  and wait for the owls to take off, walk back to town and have dinner at one of those seafood places mentioned earlier.

Use some descrecion when observing the owls during the day at their resting places within the campside. If the locals see you looking up the trees, they will start throwing bricks at the owls, and demand money from you for "showing" you the birds. 

If you are planning on exploring the lake itself, you will need a boat. If you want to get the most out of your lake exploration, you will also need a guide.  A good birding-guide is not that obvious in Morocco. Although the place is a Mekka for birdwatchers, the Morrocans themselves are totally not interested in birds. There is one exception in Moullay Bousselham: his name is Hassan Dalil. He also ownes a boat, by the way. He will probably find you before you find him. Just walk a few times up and down the main street with binoculars around your neck. If he is in town, he will get hold of you. You can also check at the restaurant Milano.  His fee is around 200 dirhams, including boat, and negotiable. While looking for Hassan, we encountered several people who claimed to be Hassan and wanted to take us on a boattrip. Don't be fooled by them. Take a look at the picture to see how Hassan really looks like.

Also worth a visit is the Atlantic coast. This stretch of wild and rugged coast is too dangerous for swimming because of the undercurrent, so don't get overexited by this magnificent piece of nature. A lot of waders can be observed on the coastal rocks at low tide.  

The lake and campside are infested by musquito's. Bring insect repellant!

We stayed at Hotel Villanora (tel 432071) at the far end of town. It is run as a bed & breakfast by an old Englishman.  The place has five rooms. One of the rooms has an absolutely fantastic sea-view.